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Sewing
Tips and Savvy Questions Answered
Here are some of the Sewing Savvy questions
we've had the pleasure of answering.
Beading |
Fabric &
Sewing | Needles & Thread | Decorative
Techniques | Tips
Home
Bead Questions |
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Q. |
I need to replicate
beading on a wedding gown for a look-a-like
doll. I am having trouble keeping
the spacing even. I am working on
Satin and it is difficult or impossible
to count threads. Is there some sort
of template I could use over the
dress that would be a tear-a-way?
The pattern is bugle bead, space,
bugle bead, space, small bead, space,
repeat.
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A. |
Satin is not a friendly
fabric to mark is it. My best suggestion
would be to use a tulle or netting
that you could carefully cut away
when you were done. Lay the tulle/netting
(depending on your bead and bugle
size you'll have to decide which
would be best, probably the netting)
directly on your satin and baste
in the seam allowances. You really
only have to tack it into place.
Be certain you have it lined up
exactly even before you start.
Then use the grid holes on the
netting to place your beads. When
you're through, snip the netting
away. |
Q. |
I
need to sew beads on a see through
fabric but I don't want the knots
to be too visible, or the threads
running from bead to bead. How
do I tie each bead off so they
will not undo? I've tried a simple
double knot but if the bead gets
pulled it undoes very easily as
I needed the thread ends to be
short. |
A. |
You're
definitely on the right track,
you just need to take it a little
bit further. A double or even
triple knot with very fine, lightly
hand-waxed thread would work.
But before you snip the knots
close, use a clear seam sealant
like Fray Check on the knot.
Just a dab (I put mine in a clean,
empty nail polish bottle so that
I can greatly control the application)
on the knot - and let it dry
completely before trimming the
threads. Of course do attempt
to get the thread a close in
color match to the fabric as
possible. |
Q. |
I
bought a pair of beaded jeans and
after wearing them only once, the
beads are falling off. I looked
at the inside of the jeans, and
it looks to be a continuos string
of thread connecting all the beads.
Is there something I can iron on
or sew on to prevent the thread
from breaking every time I wear
them? I'm hoping that I don't have
to stitch each one individually. |
A. |
I can give you
several ideas/answers/suggestions.
1. Don't ever buy another pair
of pre-beaded jeans. 2. Get a bottle
of seam sealer like Fray Check
and dab some on each and ever bead
connected from the inside and outside.
3. In addition to that, fuse down
a strip/piece of fusible tricot
over that section. Be careful though
not to use too hot an iron it will
melt. But it's soft and flexible
and won't add bulk. Also if you
do that, cut the edges into curves
- no hard points- will help to
stay on better. 4. Hand sew/secure
each on of those suckers in place.
Or at least, knot off every few
beads. Normally that's that we
do: knot between each or every
few beads and then use a seam sealant
over the knots as added protection. |
Q. |
How
do you clean oxidized bugle beads?
The beads are on the bust portion
of a gown. There are also pearls
on the bust area. |
A. |
What are the beads
made of? What shape are the pearls
in? I'm afraid that you're going
to have to remove and replace all
the bugel beads. Be sure to check
the fabric after you've removed
them to ascertain that the fabric
hasn't been damaged. I do wish
I had better answer for you.... |
Q. |
I've
made a peyote stitch 1/4" band
and am trying to sew it on a neckline.
I'm having trouble making it straight
and lie flat. I've tried sewing
just edges catching edge beads.
It tends to bubble and go crooked.
I want it perfectly straight and
flat. |
A. |
First off a question
for you: what type of neckline
is it? Is the neckline is a strong
or gentle curve, did you make
the bead band curved also? Like
anything else, curves work with
curves, flat/straight with flat/straight.
If the beaded band is prefectly
straight it simply will not lie
nicely on curved edge. |
Q. |
I'm
sewing a beaded embroided netting
and would like to know what type
of seam to do? |
A. |
Boy you like challenges
don't you! The best seam would
be a rolled edge - very small and
flat. If you can't do that, then
a very small serged edge. A french
seam is the third option, but that
might make you nuts trying on netting.
Good luck to you, and keep those
tweezers handy to pull beads ... |
Q. |
I'm
trying to hand bead on tulle for
my daughters wedding veil and not
having much luck keeping it straight
and even. I'm attempting to use
bugle beads in a V pattern with
seed beads at the top and bottom.
I plan on adding some 4mm Swarovski
crystals in the V after the bugle
beads are applied but can't get
it uniform. It's also very difficult
to see. Any suggestions you can
offer would be greatly appreciated. |
A. |
Okay, I think I
can make this a bit easier for
you. 1. Get some sheets of white
tissue paper - as much as is needed
to cover the area you're beading.
You should probably use several
layers of sheets. 2. Transfer the
design onto the tissue paper -
use a pencil, colored pencil with
thick lead would work best visibility
wise. Do not use a marking pen
- it's eat right through the tissue
and stain the tulle. 3. Layout
the veil - and measure off where
this design is suppose to go. 4.
Lay the marked up tissue under
and pin in to place. You can use
a nice hand running /basting stitch
after you pin in - to make sure
is stays in place. 5. Bead! You
can bead through the tissue paper
(remember to sew those beads on
SECURELY, with waxed doubled thread
or special beading thread). 6.
When finished remove the tissue
paper. All of it. Every single
little bitty piece of it. |
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Tips
& Tricks
• If you do a lot a
free motion work, especially if you're
using a batting for texture, use a slightly
shiny pattern
tracing media on the back of the
batting. You don't remove it - leaves no
bulk, and stops the feed dogs from pulling
everything down.
• Keep a nice black
permanent magic marker in your
sewing room. Use it on those interesting
button holes where the fabric still shows
through the stitching. You can use the
same technique with other marker colors
on the appropriate fabrics.
• If you hand dye your
own fabrics, spray on Wintergreen
rubbing alcohol right after you
apply your dyes. Let them dry like normal.
Your colors will be softened and have a
sueded look.
• Tricot
diaper flannel makes a great midweight
interfacing and interlining.
• Put 'seam sealant'
in a clean, empty nail
polish bottle. No
waste, no spills and you control the amount
applied almost exactly.
• Only use glass
beads when
you bead. If you iron over the plastic
ones they melt - this is not a
pretty picture. It's not worth trying
to save $3, when you ruin your garment.
• Fusible
tricot interfacing is a terrific
lightweight, drapable stabilizer - I
use it in almost everything I make. It
comes in 3 colors: ecru, white, and black,
and 4 widths.
• Back the area you're
beading with diaper
flannel.
The beads rest gently into the flannel,
and you can anchor your stitches simply
and securely.
• Not really sure how
to measure yourself
correctly? Visit our Taking
Measurements section and then download
the measuring
guide PDF.
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